Last post from Canada

August 28 We arrived in Canada on July 29, and we leave tomorrow August 29. We have visited six towns: Thessalon, Tolsmaville, Meldrum Bay, Spanish, Blind River and Gore Bay. Tolsmaville on Cockburn Island is the smallest, with a year-round population of one - and he’s retiring as island caretaker. Historic one room School at Tolsmaville Bay. We have had meals out in Gore Bay (poutine and fresh whitefish), Blind River (pan-fried whitefish). We have been to one brewery - Split Rail. The Independent grocery stores in Thessalon, and Gore Bay were excellent, with high quality meat and veg. Spanish and Meldrum Bay had glorified convenience stores, and we got what we needed but not so great. Canadian boaters were amazing. Power, fishing, jet skis and dinghies would slow right down when passing. The only boats that threw up a wake had US…

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August 14

We left the marina at Blind River on Wednesday the 12th after visiting the Timber Valley Museum and Art Gallery. The gallery had both local artists and local Indigenous artists. It seems to me, and this is a broad generalization, the local artists tend to photograph or paint landscapes. The First Nation artists tend to paint birds and animals. It is common enough that you can tell from a distance from whose hands, mind and heart the artwork was conceived. We headed to Turnbull Island, but there were several other boats already anchored.  We backtracked to Sanford Island and saw that the ‘best’ spot was occupied, but if we dropped near a point of land in about 20 feet of water we would be okay. Protected from the west, and pretty wide open north and south, we had amazing views to the northern…

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Paradise

August 2 St. Ignace is nice town. We spent a couple of nights in the marina. Most everything is an easy walk away. It even has two hardware stores so I had to stop in there, although I didn’t really need anything except a small amount of epoxy. The galley sink has a pull-out faucet and I found a crack at the end of the threads that attaches to the hose. I sealed it up with epoxy and wound some sewing thread around it to provide some reinforcement. It just has to last through the season. It’s the kind that looks like chrome plated metal, but it’s mostly plastic. There are better ones that are made from metal and it’s such a pain to replace faucets, I want this next one to outlast me. We walked a mile to the grocery stores for…

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Timing is everything

Harold goes up, so Marcia doesn't have to - though she's great at keeping me from hitting the mast. The bag contains tools and parts. We’ve holed up in Northport before. The marina has a good rate, the grocery and library are close by, and so are pastries. With wifi, we’ve been able to stream our favorite YouTube channels, watch the World Cup final, and watch some episodes of British crime dramas. When the weather is decent, we take care of the boat - cleaning, maintenance and repairs. We also like to get out to walk for three or four miles. We check the weather everyday. Both for the forecast locally, and looking at sailing weather towards the weekend. We will leave Northport on Thursday. We have options, but it looks like we will have wind to take us to Beaver Island. We…

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Smoke bound

We left Washington Island Friday, July 10. It was a calm lake, which meant we motored almost the entire way.  Not ideal, but we’re trying to set up for a trip to Beaver Island and a jump to St. Ignace. We went to anchor. After a bouncy night Sunday into Monday, we took a slip at Northport Marina, one of our favorites. We had a nice visit from our son, Tim, beginning on Monday.  We watched the semifinal match between France and Spain in the boaters lounge at the marina here. We met the owner of a cherry orchard who was using the lounge as his office as he was without internet at the farm.  He gifted us a bottle of cherry vinegar. It’s very nice. RedTruckOrchards.com We marinated pork chops in the vinegar with salt and black pepper. Delicious. The smoke rolled…

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On passage

To be sure, a Great Lakes passage is short. You’ll only make a multi-day passage if you sail the lake in the long way. Ocean passages can be measured in weeks. As I write, the nearest land is 18 miles away or about three and half hours at our current speed. A look in any direction, as far as you can see, is water. I’m on watch. With 9 knots of wind from the north, we’re making 5.4 knots on the rhumb line (93º True) to the tip of the Leelanau peninsula. We left Pedersen Bay around 5:30am CDT. It’s about 35 miles or seven-ish hours until we get to Leelanau. We’ve come about 25 miles in the five hours since we weighed anchor. The wind was light at first, so we had the sails up, and the motor running at 1700rpm.  That…

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Sunday, June 28 – Sturgeon Bay

We left Frankfort on Friday the 26th. Motored away from shore and had enough wind to have the sails and the motor on. We had to keep a 5 knot average to cross in less than 10 hours. The wind dwindled down to only a couple of knots so we rolled up the sails and motored on. You cross a number of shipping lanes crossing the lake, and we had a chance to meet a thousand foot laker. He shifted a little bit to the right, and we slowed to cross his wake about one mile astern. That was arranged over the marine radio as a sailboat has the right of way, we were also motoring. So I thought it best that he carry on. Even a mile away, these boats are huge. Shortly after meeting the freighter, the fog set in. At…

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June 24 – Frankfort

We went for a quick dinghy ride Sunday night, as we noticed that ‘Arcturus’, our first ‘big’ sailboat was on the move. We caught up with Mike and Ella as they were moving to a mooring ball. The cost of a slip has gotten too high for them. We get that - we actually have budgeted what would have gone into a slip in one place - into the cost for all of the slips we might take for the summer. I got a photo of Reflection and Arcturus, both on Betsie Lake together. We owned Arcturus from June 2000 until May 2023, and we have owned Reflection since March of 2023. Thus far, as we complete the third week: four nights in a slip in Douglas, three nights in Pentwater, one night in Ludington. We have paid for five, as we got…

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Thursday June 11

We stayed in Muskegon until Wednesday morning. Tuesday was mostly foggy, and we stayed put, as the anchor held us tight. You learn a lot about the bottom when you weigh anchor. We were in black mud and silt. Excellent holding, but you need to go over top of the anchor to break it free. The flukes of the anchor hold onto a pretty big blob of the mud.  Easiest way to remove the mud is to bring the anchor up near the surface of the water, and gently motor forward. The moving water will rinse it clean, and then we pull it up tight with the anchor windlass, attach the chain hook to take the load off of the windlass and ease it back out a few inches.  This is a similar technique used in anchoring. The windlass is designed to move…

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Monday, June 8

Sailed from Holland to Muskegon. First part, wind was perfect. Waves could be measured in inches. We went fast for almost an hour. And then we slowed as the wind dropped. The black flies found us, even three miles off shore. Smooth sail, only saw three boats in thirty miles from Holland, and two came out of the channel with us. Such a smooth sail, Marcia went down to the V-berth and had a nap. Timed it perfectly, arriving two miles behind the Lake Express - the cross-lake ferry from Milwaukee that makes the almost seventy mile crossing in two and a half hours. It’s a big catamaran, over 190’ feet (58.4 meters) long and nearly 60 feet wide (17.6 meters). The channel narrows to about 200 feet, so it’ll take up about half of the channel if you allow some safe distance.…

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